AC

Day 245/246- We had an early flight out of Delhi and it was off to Goa. Just a quick flight, however, due to some lazy planning on my part, we only found out once we landed that our final destination of Arambol was still a two hour drive away. Right from the start of the day I wasn't feeling well so I was anxious to get to Arambol. 

We arrived in the early evening and began to check out the town. It gave off a really cool vibe and there was no question that we had arrived in a hippy haven. We hadn't booked anything yet but we had word from our Breathe in Life friends of a nice hotel with AC. Now here's the thing about AC. You don't know you need AC until you neeeeeed AC. We don't always splurge for AC but when it's 35 degrees outside, humid as a steam room and you feel like a sack of jelly mixed with mashed potatoes, you should probably get a room with AC. But first, we had to find our AC hotel room. Our casual approach with the taxi driver drop off upon our arival, left us walking through town for an hour with all our bags on. The combination of my illness and the heat almost killed me. When we finally made it to Teremok (our hotel), I melted on our bed and didn't wake until morning. 

The next day was spent entirely in our room. We enjoyed the constant cold air of the AC, watched TV, ate soup and used the wifi. My illness was just in the beginning stages, so I wasn't interested in doing anything. 

Day 247- We finally made it out of the room and into the sweltering heat of the town. 

We were looking for yoga but because of the heat (mid march), everything was closing up for the season. Many businesses move up north to the Dharamshala region for the summer then come back to the south when things cool down in the winter. It was a little disappointing because we'd heard such great things about Goa. I guess the drum circles, sun worshipping and yoga classes just weren't going to happen. Although we did find some fresh fruit bowls and we had a potential lead on some yoga so we weren't giving up yet. Check out these steps below. Where do they go? Nobody knowssss? 

                     

We also ate some delicious fresh greens at a restaurant called Blue Pyramid. 

The heat made everything so much more difficult and just sucked our energy. It also made me feel more sick, so we returned home and I took a nap. We spent our evening in the shelter of our hotel, with the AC turned to high. Mike bought some paan (local indian chewing tobacco) from one of the guys at the hotel because he had been interested in trying it ever since listening to the book Shantaram. Paan is the red juice that covers most indian sidewalks from men spitting it out at their feet. I had read about the power and intensity of the tobacco online perviously and knew Mike was in for a shock. Although I didn't like it, I bit my tongue and let him experiment. Straight away he said it was potent tobacco... Within 15 minutes I noticed he was sweating profusely and soon after he tried to excuse himself to go to the bathroom. I knew what he was doing. You can't fool me! The effects were too strong and he wanted to get away from me so I wouldn't be upset. We'll I got news MK, you can't get away! Cuzz I'll fiiiiiind youuuuu! <crazy eyes> I mentioned to him that I knew how strong the stuff was and told him to sit still until the feelings subsided. He admitted that he was light headed and just wanted to lay down. Eventually the dizziness went away and Mike was able to go upstairs to lie down. Although I kept my opinions to myself, I think perhaps Mike could feel the wrath of my anger and fear burning through my eyes, so he threw the rest out. 

Day 248- So our first attempts at finding yoga had failed due to the fact that Goa was turning into a GOA ghost town but we were determined to get things going so we hit the internet hard. I'm so happy we did because we found a gem that just so happened to be in their final week before they closed for the season. The place was a sanctuary and we were instantly in zen mode. 

This beautiful Ganesha greeted us at the front entrance. Namaste!

                

Yoga was outside, shaded by an overhanging cloth led by a fantastically outgoing teacher for only six dollars a person.

After yoga we enjoyed some fresh delicious food. Fruit, muesli and yogurt bowl, fresh kombucha, real coffee (very hard to find in india, it's always instant) and freshly squeezed orange juice. 

This is the problem with places like this.... we find these gems and then spend way too much money on good food. 

Mike practicing some post meal meditation. Is he floating?!

This outing pretty much drained me of all my energy as I was still pretty sick, so we went back to our home for the rest of the night and marathon watched The Bachelor... Bahaha I just re-read the last few sentences and I know what my father in law will be thinking... what have I done to his son? Healthy food, yoga, meditation....THE BACHELOR? Don't worry Johnny, your son is still in there. He'll be home in no time and you two can build stuff, eat Mcdonalds, listen to rock and roll, say inappropriate things that Maureen with ask you not to and he'll still crush a beer can on his head just to get a laugh. But until then, he's mine. 

Day 249- Health meter is medium high. Finally took a day to hit up the beach and visit the fresh water lake nearby. 

                  

We enjoyed the refreshing water of Sweet Lake and watched the paragliders flying around the hillside above us. 

We jumped into the ocean looking for a rejuvenating cold shock but what we got instead was a warm bath. My health meter was slowly dropping, until... We were laying in the sand and an Indian lady selling scarfs passed by, she looked at Mike and said "you must have just arrived in India, because you are still very white". BAHAhahahhaa!!! Eight and a half months of travelling and that's what he gets! Too funny. Health meter rising. 

We went for lunch at Dreamland Cafe for another yoga session and more delicious food! Once again our evening ended with more Bachelor. Ben is just so darn cute and Mike thinks Olivia might be up to no good. 

Day 250- We spent most of the day at a really cute hide-a-way restaurant that could only be accessed by walking through a clothing store. I wish I could remember the name but it has left me. I worked on the blog and we ate more good food. I was still sick and it was getting the best of me. In the evening we caught a cab to the train station where we would board a train to our next destination. The car ride was brutal. 

Winding roads + plus 35 degree weather + me not feeling well = Breakdown! 

For the first time on the trip, I wanted to cancel everything and go home. I was regretting all of our future plans for Nepal, I didn't want to travel anymore of India, I was sick of being sick, I was tired of the food, the bathrooms, the people, the dirt, the heat, EVERYTHING! I didn't even want to say these things out loud because I knew I didn't mean them but in that moment, for the first time on the trip, I just wanted to be HOME! Luckily after we got to the train station, my stomach settled, the night brought cooler temperatures and I relaxed. 

We boarded our train and prepped for a 14 hour journey on the Indian Railway. The sleeper cars were a beautiful oasis amongst the maddness of India and it was just what I needed. Annnnnd exhale. 

                      

Next Stop, Alleppey. 

Things Just Got Spiritual

226- We boarded our night bus for Pushkar around midnight with skepticism that we would make it to our destination without issue. Our drive took us 7 hours and it was a smooth, trouble free journey. Mike and I had spent a few days in 'Carzy Delhi' at this point and we were happy to try out a new Indian spice. In this case, the holy city of Pushkar, Rajasthan. 

Pushkar is one of the oldest inhabited cities in India and the world, for that matter. The center of Pushkar wraps around beautiful Pushkar Lake. The lake, characterized by its many ghats (set of stairs) leading down to the holy water, serves as holy ground for bathing by both locals and pilgrims alike. As soon as our bus arrived, we were taken to the lakes edge by some very eager indian men. One such man put a red bracelet on our wrists and told us to repeat after him. Starting with some words in hindi and then moving onto asking for good fortune, good health, good family, good parents, good tip... good siblings, good job, good children, good health, good family, good job, good tip... good children, good happiness, 500 rupee tip... good parents, good health, good tip. We both recited the names of our family members and in the end, we were blessed with the water and hands of the man. It felt like it was the true beginning to our adventure in India and what a better way to do it than sending good vibes and well wishes to our families back home. Oh yea, and then we tipped the holy man 50 rupees. 

We checked into our room at the Hotel Sunset. The rooms were cute and the staff was so helpful. 

After an attempted nap, I gave up and went exploring while Mike continued to sleep. He was reacting to a bit of the food and the long journey had made for one weary traveller. This was our first contact with what is formally known as 'Delhi Belly'. It's not quite food sickness, it's just a bit of an upset stomach. Nothin ol' MK couldn't shrug off with a bit of sleep. During my explorations, I got a lot of big brilliant smiles from the Indian men and women and at no point did I feel unsafe whatsoever. The streets were alive and I knew right at that moment, that I liked Pushkar. Anywhere that allows me to wonder through a market, drink chai, walk past cows, oddly tall camels and a bunch of smiling faces, is a place for me. Oh and in comparison to the hustle of Delhi, Pushkar was positively peaceful. (most of the time...)

In the street above, a purple line along the side of the road gives good luck to passersby, a calf in the distance walks behind some people, carpets hang overhead to shade those below, men sit in their shops calling to potential customers as they walk past, as if customers hadn't noticed they were in a market place, the road is happily shared between people, motorists and animals, music plays from each shop creating a medley of sounds that resembles nothing close to music and incense burns along the road. Although it may seem chaotic and disorganized, it all flows in perfect harmony with about a dozens scooter honks every ten seconds just to make sure everyone's paying attention.

The buildings are beautiful and each looks like it's divided into three or four seperate sections, seperated by color and various designs. There are no two buildings alike in India, from what I saw.

                   

The entire city looks like a intentional art project. I quickly scoped out all the items I wanted to purchase while in Pushkar and took note of prices and shop locations. 

We all gathered for dinner as a wedding procession passed directly in front of our hotel. Giant speakers powered off of trailing car batteries blasted music and horses made way for some of the most bombastic dance moves we'd ever seen. I caught Mike on several occasions trying to time his twisting overhead hands with the rhythmic thrusts of his pelvis. I think he's still a ways off from leading any Indian wedding party but at least he was feeling better from the Delhi Belly. 

After the music and people faded, ok just the people because we could hear the music across town until about 3 am, the sun set behind the lake and the sky illuminated to orange and blue.

We had a group dinner that night compliments of the guides and they cleverly filled the table with every type of exotic Indian dish on the menu. This gave many of us the gentle 'Pushkar' we needed to open our stomachs as well as our hearts to India. It was delicious! 

Fennel is a stample in the Indian diet and is used as an aid in digestion. I know my mother in law would love it because it tastes just like black liquorice. Just take a spoonful and chew it. 

                  

 

We had many leftovers after dinner and our guide Melissa had the idea of packing up individual meals and going out in town to hand them out to those less fortunate. Everyone was all for it so we hit the streets and shared our dinner. Along the way we ran into some other hungry residents of Pushkar and we all stopped to help feed these little guys as well. None would go hungry in Pushkar that night. 

Is it me, or does Mike look scared below? Why don't you mooooooove a bit closer Mike?

Everyone was tired from our travel day so we all retired fairly early in the evening.

Day 227- My inner clock was a mess and it had me up at 5 am. Luckily I wasn't the only one.  A couple of fellow group members were also awake and we were all itching for a hot cup of coffee. However, we realized quite quickly that we were locked into the hotel complex and the staff was soundly asleep in the room next to the restaurant. Quite the predicament but we were a group of highly intelligent, highly motivated and highly uncaffeinated women, so we snuggled in and began to devise an escape plan. Our master plan was to sit and watch the sleeping staff until we saw someone stir, at which point we would engage this person in pleasant polite eye batting conversation and ask them to let us out. No, it wasn't the most elaborate or creative plan but it was the one that set us free. Once we were out we found a spot nearby who had the kettle brewing and was serving coffee. So we sat and enjoyed the rising sun and a cup of delicious indian coffee while getting to know eachother a little bit better. 

We started the day with a yoga class led by Melissa on the balcony of our hotel. Melissa put a focus on stretches that would help release the bodies lymph nodes, which was perfect because for the past three months, Mike was dealing with swollen lymph nodes in his neck that were the size of golf balls. I'm talking big, like huge, like hard to pay attention to him when he talks because all you can look at is his giant pulsating neck!!! We had been to the doctor in Australia twice about them already and although they had receded considerably, they remained a little swollen all through New Zealand. He was getting frustrated with them and thanks to one yoga class led by Melissa, his lymph nodes drained out entirely by the next day and for the first time in three months they were completely gone. Mmmm hmmm. I will make a believer out of him yet.  

Mike was beginning to feel better but was still lacking energy so he came with me to check out the rest of town but didn't last long before he went back to the hotel and to the bed that was healing him so thoroughly. I wasn't satisfied so I went out again in search of nothing and everything. 

What I found were these beautiful women who are rarely seen on the front lines and often work behind the scenes. You would think they are on their way to some extravagant event but nope, they're just off on a regular day, dressed in their everyday stunning attire.

I returned home to meet with the group to do a sunset walk to the top of the Savitri Temple. The temple is 1.5 kms up some oddly misshapen steps of varying sizes to the top of a hill that provides a beautiful view of the Lake and the city of Pushkar. The sunset was pretty amazing too.

Late night we hit up Om Shiva for some delicious oven fired pizza and admired an adorable cow under the awning, looking for something appetizing.. I think the owner feeds him chapatis.

                        

Day 228- Another early morning had me freezing in the restaurant desperate for warmth but it wasn't too long before hot chai was served along with some delicious banana porridge.   

Mike was finally starting to feel like himself again so with my business partner in tow, we hit the streets for some serious bargaining. However first things first. We wanted to send some positive vibes back home to our friends and family in the oil business whose jobs were on the line, given the terrible recession Calgary is in. We got one of men at the lake to bless our friends and families and wished for succcessful jobs, healthy families, healthy tip..., and happy life. 

There is a lot of controversy around the men who do these 'prayers', because some say they are imposters acting as holy men and they ask for crazy amounts of money to do the blessing. They also aggressively insisted that Mike and I seperate to get our blessings done by two different men, hoping to receive more money for the deed. Mike and I were prepared this and told the man right from the start how much money we'd give him (100 rupees) and we were firm that we would be doing our blessings together. In the end the prayer was beautiful and although we're not Hindu, we do believe that positive vibes and thoughts sent to our loved ones back home could only help. 

On the shopping front I was very successful and finally bought some cool items for our home. 

On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at an Ayurvedic Massage therapist. After many mind blowing and eye opening conversations with some of the people in the group, who practice Ayurvedic lifestyles, we were interested to find out what we could learn about ourselves by getting an Ayurvedic massage. Ayurveda is a way of life that if practiced according to your Ayurvedic type (dosha). An approach that is said to cure illness, free oneself from internal struggles, prevent illness, and basically live a healthy and happy life. It is not religious in nature but rather the eastern counterpart to western medicine. It suggests ways to live ones life by using natural and holistic techniques. 

For anyone who knows Mike, I'm sure you're shaking your head because you know Mike is a skeptic. Me on the other hand, would eat rocks if you said it would cure bad breath, so I jumped in feet first. 

We had our massage and after it was finished, Deepak, the man you see in the photo above, spoke with us about what he observed in our bodies from our energy. Mike's doubts were briefly lifted when he heard Deepaks feedback on me as it was eerily accurate but hope was lost when Mike heard his own inaccurate reading. Eager to believe as I am, I also doubted the validity of Mike's experience because Deepak himself did not even massage Mike. I don't believe that he got a great sense of Mike before giving us his observations. 

Like every phase of this trip Mike and I really wanted to commit to whatever that place had to offer. Be it scuba diving in the Philippines, historical lessons in Cambodia/Vietnam, hiking in New Zealand or beaches in Australia we were going to immerse ourselves in it and India would be no exception. We intended to explore the religions faiths, spirituality and holistic approaches to health that are employed by over 1 billion Indian souls and this was just the beginning of our education. We knew we wanted to delve further into the idea of Ayurveda so we didn't put too much faith into this first experience and looked forward to an official doctor led Ayurvedic consultation at our next destination. 

Day 229- I packed up and prepped to leave on the evening train and settled in with a chai to work on the blog. It was a difficult task and the more time I spent with the people in the group, the more in depth our conversations got and the harder it was for me to pull away to work on the blog because all I wanted to do was talk with my new friends. 

Mike on the other hand took the free time to join Jeff, Breathe In Life's newest hire, in the grass for some afternoon yoga. I was already impressed with Mike's level of openness in the first days of the trip but I was beginning to see a side of him that I didn't know existed and it made me proud. 

I will also say that it's hard not to listen to every word that comes out of Jeff's mouth and not want to try whatever he's suggesting. He might be the most open hearted, free spirited and interesting individuals that we've met on the trip. He speaks with such passion and honesty about every topic that it didn't take long for Mike and I to hop on the Jeff train to awesomeland.

As the moon fell, we boarded the night train to take us to our next destination. The train was sweet and we were all excited to be packed together in a metal tube, riding the Indian railway system. 

Just 14 hours to go and we'd arrive in our new city. The time went by all too fast with the aid of 501 jokes from the $2 joke book that someone purchased before getting on the train...."Which way to Rishikesh? Why the Railway of course". OK now 502 jokes, all of superlative quality. Now if we could all just stop talking and go to sleep, much easier said then done. 

Next stop, the yoga capital of the world.